"I am only one, but I am one. I cannot do everything but I can do something. And I will not let what I cannot do interfere with what I can do."
- Edward Everett

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Introduction to the Buvuma Islands

A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO THE ISLANDS
(from the SHIM manual)

Some visitors have remarked that mainland Uganda reminds them, development-wise, of America around the 1960’s (sorry, I wasn’t around back then to compare). Few own cars, jobs are difficult to come by, and higher education is becoming highly valued. Many homes in the cities have TV’s, for example, but in the villages there might be only a few, if any, around which people gather to watch important events—here that is often “football” (soccer) matches. Radio is still the most common form of mass media.

The islanders themselves say that the islands are about 40 years behind the mainland. The majority of the people on the islands are uneducated and illiterate, even in their native language. While at least a few English words are known by almost all, only the more educated can speak fluently. There is no electricity (except for a few privately owned generators and small solar systems), and “running water” is what you carry on your own two feet. There are no municipal water or sanitation systems, nor is there access to safe drinking water except for a few systems put in by non-government organizations (NGO’s) like Shepherd’s Heart and Youth With A Mission. It is common to step over raw sewage from time to time as one walks through the villages (usually from children, or “run off” from a private outhouse that sits on the surface of the ground). Cooking is also difficult, requiring wood or charcoal.

Because the islands are so remote and difficult to reach, and because traditionally the local people feared the spirits on the water, the islands became inhabited by a high percentage of criminals and refugees. Many fled from past war zones. Others migrated from Kenya and mainland Uganda seeking livelihood from fishing. On any given island, there are people from several different nationalities and dozens of different tribes/languages. Rarely will you find an adult who is native to the islands. This combination makes for some very difficult hurdles against unity and community within the camps. It also greatly hinders development, as the people do not consider the islands their home.

Almost the entire economy of the Buvuma Islands is built around the fishing industry. On Lingira Island, most of the fishing is for Mukeni, a small, Smelt-like fish. The men go out at night in their two-to-five-man wooden canoes and net the fish. During the day, the women spread the fish out in the sun to dry and prepare for shipment. Unfortunately, the fish are growing increasingly scarce. The average working man on the islands might make $2 per day.
Lake Victoria is full of bacteria harmful to humans and is unfit for drinking or even bathing—although it is used for both by the local people, causing a plethora of skin diseases, parasites, and gastrointestinal illnesses. As an added burden, HIV/AIDS has wreaked havoc and death upon many. Adult infection estimates run well over 50%. The only medical access on the islands consists of a few scattered clinics that provide first-aid and basic medicines (when they are available).

Lingira is one of 52 islands in the Buvuma Island Chain in Lake Victoria, and is located near the equator. As a result, the temperature is hot all year long, although the high elevation (over 3,50 feet) and the lake itself provide some moderation and often a cool breeze in the afternoon. Rainy seasons are from March-May and Sept-Nov. The temperature remains fairly constant.
Lingira Island is approximately five miles in circumference, and boasts three small villages: Lingira (pronounced with a short “g”, emphasis on 2nd syllable), Kyoya (pronounced Choi’yah) and Katonga (emphasis on the long “o”). The total population of the island is less than three thousand. Almost all live in the crowded villages in round, grass-thatched, mud huts about fifteen feet in diameter. A few live in rectangular mud homes with metal roofs. Much of the clothing is from America or Europe. Women wear long dresses.

The friends you meet may invite you into their homes. Hosting a visitor is considered a great honor. When they do, they will certainly feed you something, as this is a sign of hospitality, a revered virtue in this culture. Even a “quick” (nothing is ever quick here) visit will require sodas or tea and some rolls or biscuits. They will likely spend more on your food (even for a snack, if it includes sodas) than they will spend for their whole family in a day. It is humbling, but to refuse would be a terrible offense. They may also give you the only chair(s) in the home, while they sit on the floor or stand. Again, to refuse would be offensive.

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